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Why do cats claw (scratch) objects?
Cats claw to maintain proper condition of the nails, for fun and exercise,
and to mark territory visually as well as with scent. They stretch by digging
their claws into something and pulling back against their own claw-hold.
A cat's natural instinct to scratch serves both physical and psychological
needs. Before domestication, cats satisfied these needs by clawing tree
trunks. Domesticated cats can be trained to satisfy their desire to claw
without damaging valuable property.
What happens when a cat is declawed?
Note the strong ligaments and tendons which give power to extend and
retract the claws in the drawing.
When the end digit including the claw is removed, the sensory and motor nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. They do not repair themselves or grow back for many months. There follows a wooden lack of feeling, then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence. The cat must walk on the stub end of the second digit. Sometimes a claw grows back, but not in the normal way. Rather, they grow up through the top of the paw creating a bloody sore. The physical effect of declawing is gradual weakening of the muscles of the legs, shoulders and back, imparing balance. Declawed cats must feel defenseless and certainly live with more stress in their lives. Despite its grace, a cat is not sure-footed. Without the ability to grasp with its claws, it can easily be injured in a fall.
Understanding declawing
Declawing involves several separate, painful amputations. It
is a serious surgery, not just a manicure. The British Veterinary Associations
calls declawing an "unnecessary mutilation." Indeed, it is illegal in most
parts of Europe. Declawing a cat involves general anesthesia and
amputation of the last joint of each toe, including the bones, not just
the nail. Possible complications of this surgery include reaction to anesthetic,
hemorrhage, bone chips which prevent healing, recurrent infections and
damage to the radial nerve, pain, and possible abnormal regrowth of the
nails. The nails may grow back inside the paw, causing pain but remaining
invisible to the eye. Declawed cats need regular X-rays to monitor this
problem. Declawing results in a gradual weakening of leg, shoulder, and
back muscles, and, because of impaired balance, declawed cats have to relearn
to walk much as would a person who lost his or her toes. Without claws,
cats are virtually defenseless, and this often leads to neurosis and even
skin and bladder problems.
Many veterinarians, have spoken out against declawing. Many vets refuse to perform the surgery, calling the operation cruel, and in most cases, unnecessary. Veterinarian Florence Barton says, "I won't perform this operation. The cat is missing [his or her] most important means of defense and feels very insecure." Without claws to mark their territory, even house-trained cats will often urinate and defecate outside the litter box in a desperate attempt to ward off intruders.
In The Cat Care Question and Answer Book veterinarian Barry Bush concurs: "Veterinary removal of the claws (onychectomy) is a painful mutilation which cannot be recommended under any circumstances." Dr. Louis J. Camuti, a practicing vet for more than 58 years sums up his objections this way: "I wouldn't declaw a cat if you paid me $1,000 per nail!"
Misconceptions about declawing
There are several misconceptions about declawing. It does not make
cats more "mellow." Declawed cats may be morose, reclusive, and withdrawn,
or they may be irritable, aggressive, and unpredictable. Many people think
declawing makes a cat safer around babies, but this is far from true, as
the lack of claws turns many cats into biters. Declawed cats feel so insecure,
lacking their first line of defense, that they tend to bite more often
as a means of self-protection. People who have their cats declawed simply
do not understand how important claws are to a cat and do not know how
else to deal with the problem. With a little effort and commitment to your
cat's welfare, you can eliminate the excuse to declaw your cat and make
him or her a better companion as well.
How to train your kitten or cat where to scratch
1. Regular nail trimmings.
When the cat is relaxed and unafraid, gently press on the toes until
the claws extend. Use a pair of nail trimmers and cut only the tip of the
nail, taking care not to damage the vein or quick, which is very painful
if cut. If you have never trimmed a cat's nails before, ask a vet or experienced
cat person to show you how the first time.The nail "hook" is what tears
up upholstery, so when it is removed, damage is greatly reduced.
2. Buy or build two or more scratching posts.
Such posts must be sturdy, tall enough to allow the cat to completely
stretch (3 feet or taller). A bark-covered log, a post covered with sisal,
or a tightly woven burlap-covered post works well. Soft, fluffy, carpeted
scratching posts don't work -- they are one of the greatest causes of declawing
because cats often don't like the posts. If you use carpet, secure it to
the posts with the rough backing on the outside; soft carpeting will not
satisfy a cat's need to claw. Place one scratching post where the cat is
already clawing, and another close to where he or she normally sleeps (cats
like to stretch and scratch when they first wake up). Another option is
the cardboard or sisal "scratching box," which lies flat on the floor.
These are inexpensive and small enough to scatter around the house, allowing
your cat easy access to an "approved" scratching spot at all times. They
do wear out fairly quickly, however, and will need to be replaced every
few months -- otherwise, cats may get frustrated and revert back to using
furniture.
3. Give your cat specific instructions as to where to claw and where
not to claw.
Place your cat on the new scratching post and move his or her paws,
or pretend to scratch it yourself. This will scent the posts and encourage
exploratory clawing. Make the post a "fun" place to be. Play games with
your cat on and around the post and attach hanging strings, balls and/or
bouncy wire toys to it. Sprinkle catnip on the post, too. (A once-a-week
or so "refresher" application will keep your cat interested.) When
kitty uses the post, reinforce this behavior with praise, but be careful
not to startle or frighten him or her. When the cat claws furniture, never
discourage them with physical force. Lukewarm water from a squirt gun or
spray bottle directed at the back of the animal is often successful. During
the training period, you may need to cover upholstery with plastic or other
protection (cats don't like the slippery feel and will quickly learn to
stay away).
Another option is Soft Paws Nail Caps for Cats. Soft Paws are soft, vinyl nail caps that are glued on over a cats' newly trimmed nails. They allow cats to scratch without harming anything - babies, people, or furniture. One package (30 caps, a 3-4 month's supply) is only about $14.95 at www.softpaws.com and they are also available at most pet supply stores.
An excellent book to help you understand your cat better is The New Natural Cat by Anitra Frazier, Campman and Co., Bridgeport, Conn., 1981. By understanding cat behavior and by using common-sense precautions and behavior modification methods, you can prevent clawing damage without inflicting pain on your feline companion.
References:1.Townsend, Jean B., "How to Deal With Your Cat's Claws," Maryland Feline Society, Inc., 1982.
2.Marsden, Donna, "Cats With Claws: It's Only Natural," Washington Humane Society News, Spring 1995, p. 3.
3.Riddle, Roz, The City Cat, Charles Scribner Sons, p. 40, 1984.
4.Place for Cats, New York, N.Y., 1993.
5.Wilbourn, Carole C., Cats Prefer It This Way, Coward, McCann & Geoghegan, 1976.
6.Townsend, op. cit.
7.Barton, Florence, D.V.M., "Ask the Vet," Cat Fancy.
8."Declawing: Convenient But Cruel?," PAWS News, Feb. 1989.
9."Paws Come With Claws," Friends of Animals brochure.
Copyright © 1997 - Cicki Hasselblad, Pleasant Hill,
CA - All rights reserved.
Send all questions and comments to mail to: mchassel@inreach.com
URL: http://home.inreach.com/mchassel/
If you find this information helpful, please make a donation to the Pasadena Humane Society & SPCA. You can donate online or mail a check made out to PHS to:
BEST Training
Pasadena Humane Society & SPCA
361 S. Raymond Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91105