Introducing Your New Cat
To Your Resident Dog(s)

You will need to take some time to introduce your cat to other family pets in order to prevent fearful and aggressive problems from developing.  Neutering/spaying of all pets to be introduced is essential, ideally at least a month before the introduction, so the hormones levels which can heighten territorial responses have time to subside.

Dogs and cats who did not have experience with the opposite species when they were young will require some extra time to become accustomed to each other. But if you follow these steps below, most dogs and cats can be trained to live in the same household together peacefully.  Some dogs have such a high prey drive, they may never be able to live with cats without trying to kill them.  But before you give up hope, here is a step by step guide to introducing your new cat to your resident dog(s).  For simplicity's sake, we'll call your dog(s) Rover, and your new cat Kitty.

1. Get Rover ready -  if he does not already know the commands "sit", "come" and "stay" he must learn them before being introduced to a cat for the first time. Little tidbits of food should  increase Rover's motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of such a strong distraction as a new cat. Even if Rover already knows the commands (and you trained him without food treats), work with obeying commands in return for a special food treat - like bits of cooked chicken or something else he really really loves.

2. Get Kitty ready - she will need a "starter" room, or isolation room, with her food, water, litterbox and bed. Give her a chance to become adjusted to being in a new home - depending on her personality, this can be anywhere from one day to a week or more.  You can spend time with her, but not Rover!

3. First step of exposure: start feeding Rover and Kitty on opposite sides of the door during Kitty's isolation period.  They will associate each other's presence with a pleasurable experience.  If Rover starts whining/pawing/barking at the door, move the food bowls farther away, keep him on a leash, and gradually move the bowls closer to the cat's door each feeding time. When they are eating calmly next to the door, expose them to each other's scents by rubbing them with a towel and leaving it down for them to smell.

4. Then you want Kitty to get used to spending short periods of time in a big wire crate or carrier - not a small one, but one large enough for her to stand up and turn around, even a dog's crate or carrier is good.  This should be when Kitty gets a special treat, like a tiny bit of canned food, and hangs out for a few minutes afterwards, with the door shut.  Practice this a few times a day.  Rover should not have any contact with the cat at this time - keep him totally separate and confined while you let the cat out and feed her in the big crate.

5. Put your dog's leash on, and command him to either "sit" or "down" and "stay."   Put the cat in a wire crate, kennel or carrier. You are going to have the animals to have possible visual contact, but no physical contact.   Remember to breathe and think calm thoughts, and try to keep some slack in the leash. The worst that could happen is Rover will lunge at the kennel, and you will certainly have time to hang on and pull him back.  Dogs will respond to any tension they feel in you.  It might help you and the dog to say nice things like "Kitty Kitty come meet Rover" in a pleasant tone.  Bring the dog into the room where the cat is in the crate.  The dog might not notice the crate/cat at first, or may go for it. Whatever the reaction, try to get Rover's attention with his treats, and have him sit.  If he ignores your commands for more than ten seconds, leave the room.   Repeat this step until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other without fear, aggression, or other uncontrollable behavior.   Depending on the animals, this can be the first time, or it may take weeks or months. In rare cases (those high prey drive dogs) it may never happen, and you will never be able to allow them free access to one another.

6. Next, allow them to get a little closer together, with the dog still on leash and the cat in the crate. Have the dog sit and stay. If the cat becomes frightened, or the dog starts ignoring you and gets up from the sit/stay, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly. Eventually, the animals should be brought close enough together to allow them to investigate each other visually and calmly.  Then you can allow the dog to sniff at the kennel and cat, as long as he is being calm, and listens to you if you say "sit" or "come." Eventually you will work up to being able to remove the dog's leash (cat still safely in the crate) with all parties involved acting calmly.

7.  Then you are going to enter the room with the cat in the crate, dog on a leash, make the dog sit/down/stay, and open the door of the crate.  By this time, the dog should pretty much be ignoring the cat, looking to you for treats and training.  But a moving cat is often a little more interesting than one just sitting in a crate! Cat may just stay in the crate.  Tempt her out with a treat.  If she won't come out, leave the room with the dog, let the cat walk out of the crate and come back in with the dog.  Cat can still run and "hide" in the crate if she wants.  It may take time but eventually you should be able to have them in the same room together with the dog ignoring the cat, and vice versa.  Then you can allow the cat to free roam in the house, though you should keep your dog on leash for some time, and keep them separated when you are not home, to be certain the cat will be safe.

Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with the cat is unacceptable behavior, your dog must also be taught how to behave appropriately, and be rewarded for doing so (e.g. sitting, coming when called, or lying down in return for a tidbit.) If your dog is always punished whenever the cat is around, and never has "good things" happen in the cat's presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat.

Precautions: Dogs like to eat cat food because it is very high in protein, and therefore very tasty. You should keep the cat food out of the dog's reach (in a closet, on a high shelf, etc.) Why dogs like to "raid the litterbox" is not well understood, but eating cat feces is a relatively common behavior. Although there are no health hazards to the dog from this habit, it is usually distasteful to owners. Unfortunately, attempts to keep the dog out of the litterbox by "booby trapping" it will also keep the cat away as well. Punishment after the fact will NOT change the dog's behavior. Probably the best solution is to place the litterbox where the dog cannot access it - such as behind a baby gate, or in a closet with the door anchored open (from both sides) just wide enough for the cat.

Based on a handout written by the Denver Dumb Friends League, www.ddfl.org.

If you find this program helpful, please make a donation to the Pasadena Humane Society & SPCA. You can donate online or mail a check made out to PHS to:

BEST Training
Pasadena Humane Society & SPCA
361 S. Raymond Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91105